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Horse Riding in La Plagne: My Magical Night Ride at Chalet des Vignobles
Night-time horse riding in La Plagne
There are some experiences in the Alps that feel like something out of a dream, and my recent evening ride with Chalet des Vignobles was exactly that.
Tucked away in the protected valley of Champagny-le-Haut, this family-run equestrian centre offers year-round horse and pony activities that are equal parts authentic and magical. Whether you visit in summer or winter, the setting alone is enough to make your heart skip a beat.
I hadn’t visited there before this summer when some horse-crazy friends visited and fancied trying out the evening aperitif and horse ride hack – well they had me at apero!
Honestly, this was one of the best activities I have done recently in La Plagne. From the stunning setting, to the well managed stables, gorgeous horses, delicious local wine and cheese and of course, fabulous company! It was a night to remember.
Discovering Champagny-le-Haut
Champagny-le-Haut is one of those rare places where time seems to slow down. Surrounded by the dramatic peaks of the Vanoise National Park, the valley is peaceful, pristine, and utterly breathtaking. It’s the kind of landscape that makes you want to explore slowly, soak in the silence, and just breathe. The stables here feel entirely in tune with the environment, unpretentious, charming, and rooted in tradition.
I’ve lived in the peaks of La Plagne for a long time now. But descending to this spot in the valley, it felt like a different world. Safe to say I was immediately eyeing up chalets for sale on the valley floor!
Meet the Hensons: The perfect horses for Alpine adventures
One of the things that sets Chalet des Vignobles apart is its herd of Henson horses. They are a hardy, gentle-natured breed that’s practically made for this kind of riding. All but one of the horses at the stables are Hensons, and it’s easy to see why.
Originally developed in northern France in the 1970s, Hensons were bred to be tough enough to live outdoors year-round, yet calm and friendly enough for leisure riders. With their distinctive dun coats, strong builds, and calm, confident personalities, they’re a joy to ride, especially in the mixed terrain and mountain weather of Champagny-le-Haut.
Hensons are incredibly sure-footed, making them ideal for the forest paths, riverside tracks, and alpine meadows you ride through here. They’re relaxed but responsive, sociable with people and each other, and seem completely unfazed by changes in light or weather. Which really matters on a night-time ride or snowy winter trek.
If you're new to riding or haven’t been in the saddle for a while, you’ll feel totally at ease. And if you're more experienced, you’ll appreciate just how dependable and forward-going these horses are. They genuinely enhance the whole experience, more companion than vehicle.
On our adventure, I was riding Bimbo, and she was fab – if a little windy! Which the riders behind me really enjoyed. But she was brilliant and strongly made me consider whether I could afford to ski all winter and ride all summer. Spoiler alert – I can’t!
Chalet des Vignobles
Chalet des Vignobles itself is a gem. And I don’t use that word lightly. A working stable run by qualified instructors and equine enthusiasts. Our instructor for the evening was Melia who was French but fluent in English and so was able to describe and talk to us at length about the horses, the local area and more. The owner of the stables, Didier, was also on hand, just keeping an eye on us and making sure that we were well suited and competent on our horses before we set off.
The chalet offers everything from hand-led pony rides for toddlers to multi-hour treks, week-long treks and ski-joëring in the snow. The horses are calm, well cared for, and the staff make it a priority to pair the right horse with the level of the rider, whether you’re novice and nervous riders, or more experienced. The care and attention to detail makes the whole experience incredibly welcoming.
The evening apéro ride: 18:30 to 23:30
We had booked the night-time apéro ride, which runs from around 6:30pm to 11:30pm. We began by collecting, brushing and tacking up the horses ourselves, with guidance from the team. There’s something wonderfully grounding about this part. Brushing down your horse, checking their hooves, tightening the saddle, checking the reins. It connects you to the animal and sets the tone for what’s to come.
We set off just as the sun dipped behind the mountains. The two-hour outbound ride took us along forest paths and open meadows, the only sounds the gentle rhythm of hooves and the occasional call of wildlife. We spotted birds of prey and several marmottes on route. We were also surrounded by waterfalls and the Doron river. The cool air, dusky light, and smell of pine trees created the kind of sensory experience you wish you could bottle.
About 2/3 through, we stopped at a secluded riverside spot where a rustic table had been laid with local cheeses and wine. Tomme and Beaufort, served simply with bread and a choice of rosé or a red from the owners' family vineyard. That glass (or 2!) of red was so good, I had to buy some when I spotted it in a local store. Just to confirm it really was as delicious as it seemed under the stars. I can confirm, it was.
Riding back under starlight was something else entirely. It had been a little overcast o nthe way out so I didn’t think we would see many starts. However, we were so far from electric lighting, that we could see loads. The pace was gentle, the mood quiet. With no artificial light to distract us, we were guided by the soft glow of the moon and the calm presence of our horses. It was honestly one of the most serene experiences I’ve had in the Alps.
From vine to valley: A family legacy
The wine served during the apéro comes from a local Savoyard cooperative, the Cave de Cruet. This means there are around a hundred farmers and wine growers who pool their grapes to make the best of their wines.
Their wines, including the beautiful red we enjoyed under the stars, are crafted with the same care and authenticity that defines every part of the Chalet des Vignobles experience. You can find out more about the Cave de Cruet wines here.
We enjoyed the Sublime Savoie Mondeuse St Jean de la Porte on the ride and I bought a bottle of the Mondeuse Arbin at a later date when I was on holiday in Morzine.
And it turns out that the vineyard is only about 1 hour 20 mins from La Plagne, so I might have to head over for some wine tasting – purely for quality control, of course.
More La Plagne riding to explore
Beyond the night ride, Chalet des Vignobles offers a wide variety of horse-based activities throughout the year. In summer, there are half-day and full-day treks, pony rides for young children, and even riding holidays. In winter, you can try ski-joëring (being towed behind a horse on skis), pony sledging, or snow walks with the horses. Everything is run with the same attention to detail and passion.
There’s also the option to book an overnight trek to the Refuge de la Glière. This includes dinner, a night in the refuge, and breakfast the next morning. It’s high on my wishlist for next summer. I can only imagine how magical that sunrise ride back would feel.
For a full overview, read my guide to the best things to do in La Plagne in summer, including activities, easy days and family-friendly ideas.
How to Get to Chalet des Vignobles
Chalet des Vignobles is located in Champagny-le-Haut, about 5 km beyond the main village of Champagny-en-Vanoise. It’s a stunning drive or cycle up the valley, especially in summer when the meadows are in bloom.
- By car: Follow signs from Champagny-en-Vanoise towards Champagny-le-Haut. There is a lot of parking available near the stables. If you're arriving from the La Plagne altitude villages, you will need to drive. It took us about 1.5 hours to get there and then back. So it was a late night by the time we got home!
- By shuttle: In peak seasons, a free navette (shuttle bus) runs regularly between Champagny village and Champagny-le-Haut. Check the latest timetable at the local tourist office.
- On foot or by bike: For the adventurous, it’s possible to hike or cycle up from the main village, about 45–60 minutes depending on pace.
Once you reach the valley, the stables are well signposted and blend beautifully into the Alpine landscape. It’s a peaceful arrival that sets the tone for the whole experience.
What makes this one of La Plagne’s best outdoor activities
If you're planning a trip to La Plagne and want to experience the mountains in a completely different way, I wholeheartedly recommend a visit to Chalet des Vignobles. The night apéro ride is ideal for couples, small groups, or even confident teens, and offers something truly out of the ordinary.
Champagny-le-Haut itself is worth the detour, and combining it with this kind of authentic, local experience only makes it more special. Whether it’s your first time on a horse or you’re a seasoned rider, this is one La Plagne memory that will stick with you for years to come.
Find out more or book directly at lechaletdesvignobles.fr
