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Wild Camping in the Alps – Our Family Bivouac in La Plagne
Why We Decided to Go Camping in La Plagne
This summer, in early August, we traded our usual chill apartment for a night under the stars. The date wasn’t random – it was a full moon, and the peak of the Perseids meteor shower. The plan? Our first-ever family-of-5 bivouac: one night camping wild in La Plagne, with our three kids (aged 8, 7, and 1).
I wanted to show them a side of the mountains you can’t get from a chalet balcony. The feeling of being in the landscape, hearing the river as you drift off, and waking up to the sun peeking over the peaks.
But as romantic as that sounds, you can’t just pitch a tent anywhere in France and call it a night. Wild camping here comes with rules. And knowing them is the difference between a magical Alpine experience and an awkward conversation with the gendarmes.
Wild Camping vs Bivouac – What’s the Difference?
In France, camping sauvage (wild camping) and bivouac aren’t the same thing:
- Bivouac: Small, temporary camp for one night only, usually on foot, between about 7pm and 9am. No vehicles, no big kit, and everything packed away before you leave.
- Camping sauvage: Larger set-ups, multiple nights, often with cars or campervans – heavily restricted and often outright banned.
The General Rules for Bivouac in France
- Check local regulations – each commune, regional park, or national park sets its own rules.
- Avoid private land unless you have permission.
- Stay at least 200m from water sources unless you’re in an authorised spot.
- Fires only where permitted – we used the designated BBQ grill and marked fire pit.
- Arrive late, leave early – keep it discreet. Typically pitch from 7pm and packed away by 9 am.
- Leave no trace – all litter, even “natural” scraps like fruit peel, must be taken away.
Specific to La Plagne & the Alps
La Plagne sits close to the Vanoise National Park. Inside the park, bivouac is only allowed in certain high-altitude mountaineer zones. Outside, in the wider Tarentaise, there’s more flexibility. But you still need to respect farming areas, ski infrastructure, and marked trails. In summer, official recreation spots with BBQs and fire pits make it easier (and safer) for families.
If you're inspired by the idea, but not looking to camp overnight, then you can check out some of htee beautiful spaces on some of the best summer walks around La Plagne.
Preparing for Our First Family Bivouac
We wanted to keep it as cheap and simple as possible. That meant:
- Borrowing kit instead of buying – a compact camping stove from friends
- Using duvets, blankets, and pillows from home not buying special camping gear
- Taking our old 4-person tent, sleeping mats, head torches we already owned. Plus plastic plates that were the kids stuff, not specific camping things
- Packing games the boys chose themselves: Uno, The Beetle Game, Rubik’s Cubes, and homemade fishing lines!
What I didn’t expect was how little the games would be used. They ended up spending most of the time:
- Paddling in the river
- Racing stick “boats” downstream
- Building little rock dams
- Making shadow shapes with the torches after dark
Leaving the screens at home was the best decision we made.
Dinner, Marshmallows, and Shooting Stars
We arrived late afternoon and set up camp beside the river, near the designated BBQ area. Dinner was simple: burgers and sausages grilled on the public BBQ, with fire cooked jacket potatoes and chicken skewars.
We’d brought dry firewood from home for the marked fire pit. Safer, cleaner, and no stripping the local area. After dinner, we toasted marshmallows and made s’mores.
As darkness fell, it was still so mild. We lay back on our blankets to watch the stars streak the sky, although it was so bright as the full moon lit up the whole valley.
Morning in the Mountains
The first sound I heard was the river, followed by “Muuum, is it breakfast yet?”
Breakfast was:
- A strong cup of tea (non-negotiable)
- Crepes (batter made at home for ease) cooked on the camping stove
- The last BBQ burgers
- Wild berries picked the day before and yoghut for the kids
By 9am, everything was packed up. The fire pit was cold, and the spot looked exactly as it had when we arrived. The key goal of any good bivouac.
Leave No Trace: Our Family Code
We turned Leave No Trace into a simple checklist for the boys:
- Pack it in, pack it out – Even fruit pits and toilet paper go home.
- Stay on durable ground – Grass or rock, not wildflowers.
- Leave what you find – Rocks and pinecones stay put.
- Respect wildlife – No chasing marmots or frogs (tempting, I know).
- Be considerate – Keep noise low; sound travels far in the mountains.
- Fires only in designated spots – Like the marked pit we used.
- Leave it better – We even collected litter left by others and cleared up some smashed glass.
They loved ticking off each point and it gave them a real sense of ownership over “protecting the mountain”. This is so important to us, raising our kids in the Alps and to love and respect the mountains we get to live in.
Tips for Summer Bivouac in La Plagne
If you’re visiting in summer and want to try it, here’s what I’d recommend:
- Choose your spot carefully – Near water is lovely, but make sure it’s legal and safe.
- Borrow/rent kit first – Great way to try before you invest.
- Pack warm bedding – Even in August, Alpine nights can be chilly.
- Bring firewood – If you plan to use a fire pit.
- Keep food simple – BBQ or one-pot meals work best.
- Pack layers – Nights get cold quickly once the sun drops.
- Bring head torches – For safety and night-time fun.
- Know the rules – Especially if you’re near the Vanoise boundaries.
Recommended Kit
If you’re looking to invest after borrowing, here’s what I’d suggest:
- Lightweight family tent – Easy to pitch and carry.
- Self-inflating sleeping mats – More comfort for little sleepers.
- Compact camping stove – Ideal for hot drinks and pancakes.
- Rechargeable head torches – Hands-free light for everyone.
- Packable insulated jackets – Perfect for cool evenings.
- Collapsible cooking set – Space-saving and practical.
Why I’d Recommend Bivouac to Any Visiting Family
For the boys, it was an adventure they still talk about. For us, it was a reminder that the Alps in summer aren’t just about hiking trails or mountain biking – they can be a place for simple, low-cost, magical experiences.
We came home tired, a bit smoky-smelling, but proud we’d done it responsibly and legally.
If you’re in La Plagne this summer, I’d say: swap one night in your hotel or apartment for a night under the stars. Just bring the right kit, follow the rules, and don’t forget the marshmallows.
And if you’re looking for a mix of simple days and activities, I’ve shared all my favourite options in this guide to the best things to do in La Plagne in summer.
See you on the slopes.
